Es Grau (Menorca): how to get there and what to see

Es Grau is one of those beaches on Menorca's north coast that you reach by car without any fuss, only to find yourself, almost without expecting it, inside a nature park. It belongs to the municipality of Maó and sits right in the heart of the Parc Natural de s'Albufera des Grau, which is itself the core of the Menorca Biosphere Reserve declared by UNESCO. Beside the beach there's a small village of whitewashed fishermen's houses, so this is neither a wild nor a hidden cove: it's a calm, family-friendly spot that's easy to reach.

What sets it apart is its peaceful character. The beach is fine sand and the water stays very shallow for a long way out, almost like a natural pool. That, combined with the fact that it usually stays fairly sheltered, makes it one of the most comfortable options in the north for going with children. Out in front, closing off the horizon, is the Illa d'en Colom, the largest island off the Menorcan coast.

Where it is and what it's like

Es Grau lies to the north of Maó, about ten kilometres from the capital by road. It's part of the north coast, the one that faces the tramuntana, but its orientation and the natural barrier formed by the island opposite mean the sea here is usually calmer than at other, more open northern beaches.

It's a developed beach in the sense that there's a village right beside it, with the odd bar and basic services in season, but no big hotels or concrete promenade. The sand is pale and fine, and behind the beach stretches the wetland of s'Albufera, a brackish lagoon that's an important spot for birds. That combination of beach, fishing village and protected wetland is what gives it its personality.

It's worth knowing that you're in a protected natural area. The park has its own rules, there are waymarked trails to walk the lagoon and zones where the aim is to conserve the wildlife, so it pays to go with respect: take your rubbish home and stick to the marked paths.

How to get to Es Grau

By car

This is the easiest way and the one almost everyone uses. From Maó you take the road heading north up to the village of Es Grau. There's a car park near the beach, though in July and August it fills up early: if you go in high summer, arrive first thing or mid-afternoon, because at midday finding a space can be tricky.

From the village, the beach is a couple of minutes' walk away. There's no trekking across country or scrambling down cliffs: it's one of the easiest accesses on the whole north coast, which is why it works so well for families lugging a pushchair, parasol and cool box.

On foot, along the Camí de Cavalls

Es Grau is a good entry point onto the Camí de Cavalls, the trail that rings the island. From here you can set off on stages that follow the nature park's coastline northwards, towards far more solitary coves such as Cala Pudent or the sandy stretch of Mongofre, which no longer have road access and can only be reached on foot or by sea. If you enjoy walking, leaving the car at Es Grau and doing a section of the trail is a great way to see this part of the island.

By sea

Es Grau is also a well-known boating base. This is where the boats leave from to cross over to the Illa d'en Colom, which sits just opposite and can only be visited by sea. The channel separating the island from the coast is shallow, with low waters, ideal for kayaking and short crossings, and the island has two coves with good seabeds for snorkelling.

Our llaüt doesn't set off from here: we sail from Es Canutells, on the south coast, and head south or north depending on how the sea and the wind are that day. I won't promise we'll anchor off Es Grau on any particular outing, because the north coast depends a great deal on the tramuntana and I'd rather be honest than sell you a route the weather won't allow. What we do do is adapt the trip to whatever the day gives us. If you fancy seeing the coastline from the water, have a look at the routes and we'll talk it over.

What you'll find

The beach at Es Grau is fine, golden sand, with a shore of very shallow water that stays low for a good way out to sea. That's why the little ones can move about freely and parents can relax. The seabed is sand, with posidonia meadows further out, which keeps the water clean.

For snorkelling, the beach itself isn't the most spectacular spot, being so flat and sandy, but the rocky ends and, above all, the Illa d'en Colom opposite do offer corners with fish and livelier seabeds. If you take a kayak or mask and snorkel, it's worth heading over towards the side rocks.

As for facilities, with the village right beside it there's the odd bar or beach kiosk in season and a parking area, something you won't find at the wild coves of the north. Even so, don't expect a heavily equipped beach: it's a simple place, with no big infrastructure, and out of season everything is quieter.

Best time and tips

• When to go. June and September are best: pleasant water and far fewer people than at the August peak, when the car park and the beach fill up.
• The wind rules. Although it's usually more sheltered than other northern beaches, this is still tramuntana coast. With a strong northerly the water turns cloudy and choppy; check the forecast before planning your day.
• Arrive early in summer. The car park is limited and at midday in August it's hard to find a space. First thing you'll have more room and grab better shade.
• Make the most of the surroundings. You're in a nature park with trails through the lagoon; combining a swim with a walk to spot the birds is one of the plans that works best here.
• Respect the protected area. There aren't bins everywhere: take your rubbish with you, don't stray off the marked paths and leave the area as you found it.

Neighbouring coves

If you're planning your day around this northern corner, the natural thing is to look towards the nature park. The closest spot is the Illa d'en Colom, the island opposite, which you cross to by sea and where the best coves in the area for snorkelling are found. Further north, beside the Far de Favàritx, you have two wild gems that we do sail to depending on the day, Cala Tortuga and Cala Presili, with their dark slate landscape.

To get your bearings on the whole picture, two reads help: the guide to the coves of northern Menorca, with the beaches of this coast and how to reach each one, and the complete guide to the coves of Menorca, covering south and north. And if what you fancy is seeing the coast from the sea, on the boat routes page I explain how we work depending on the day.

Frequently asked questions

How do you get to Es Grau?

By car from Maó, along the road that climbs north to the village of Es Grau, about ten kilometres from the capital. There's a car park near the beach and from the village you reach the sand in a couple of minutes on foot.

Can you drive all the way to Es Grau?

Yes. Unlike many of the wild coves of the north, Es Grau has road access and parking beside the village. In July and August the car park fills up early, so it's best to arrive first thing or mid-afternoon.

Is the beach at Es Grau good for children?

Yes, it's one of the most recommendable in the north for families: fine sand, very shallow water for a long way out and a calm setting, partly sheltered by the Illa d'en Colom opposite.

What is the Parc Natural de s'Albufera des Grau?

It's the protected natural area surrounding Es Grau, the core of the Menorca Biosphere Reserve declared by UNESCO. It includes the beach, the village, a lagoon important for birds and waymarked trails to walk the wetland.

When is the best time to visit Es Grau?

In June or September, with good water temperature and fewer crowds than in August. As it's north coast, it's best to avoid days of strong tramuntana, when the sea gets choppy and the water loses its clarity.