Cala Pilar (Menorca): how to get there and what to see

Cala Pilar is one of those coves people describe as "Martian", and once you see it you understand why. It sits on the north coast of Menorca, on the stretch between Ciutadella and Ferreries, and stands out for the reddish colour of its sand and the rock that surrounds it. There's no road, no car park at the cove and no beach bar: getting there means walking a fair while through the scrub or coming in by sea. That's what has kept it just as it has been for decades.

The first thing that catches your eye is that contrast of red earth, clear water and the open northern sea. It's not a sheltered white cove like the ones in the south: here the landscape is rougher, the colours lean towards ochre and copper, and you can tell you're on the Tramuntana coast.

Where it is and what it's like

Cala Pilar belongs to the north-western strip of the island, the one that faces north. You reach it from the turn-off on the Me-1 main road, roughly around the km 34 mark, out in open country between Ciutadella and Ferreries. From there no tarmac runs down to the water: the last stretch is on foot.

It's an unspoilt, undeveloped cove. That means there are no services of any kind and the surroundings stay wild, with low scrub, scattered pinewood and that characteristic reddish rock. The sand has reddish tones from the make-up of the terrain, and the whole of red earth against the blue of the sea is what makes it so distinctive and so photographed.

Because of its position it's very exposed to the Tramuntana, the north wind. When it blows hard, the sea here gets up and the cove stops being friendly, both for swimming and for coming in by boat. Keeping that in mind is the difference between a perfect day and a wasted one.

How to get to Cala Pilar

On foot

The usual way to arrive by land is to leave the car in the dirt car park beside the turn-off and carry on walking. From there it's about 1.3 km of walking, around 30 to 40 minutes, along a scrub path that drops down towards the coast.

It isn't a technical route, but there's hardly any shade and in July or August, at midday, it gets heavy in the heat. Bring closed footwear, plenty of water, a cap and sun protection, and consider doing it first thing in the morning or late in the afternoon. A good part of the route follows the line of the Camí de Cavalls, the path that rings the whole island, so it's well signposted.

By sea

The other way to get to know Cala Pilar is from the water. Coming in by sea saves you the walk under the sun and lets you see the line of red rock and the cliffs in a way you can't take in from land. That said, it's the north coast: when the Tramuntana sets in, anchoring here isn't comfortable or safe, and the plan falls apart.

Our llaüt leaves from the port of Es Canutells, on the south coast, and we sail south or north depending on the day, depending on how the sea and the wind are. I'm not going to promise we'll head to Cala Pilar on a given outing, because it depends on the weather and I'd rather be honest. What we do do is look at what's within reach that day and work out a route worth the trip. If you fancy seeing the north coast from the sea, take a look at the routes and we'll talk it over.

What you'll find

Cala Pilar is a cove of reddish sand, set between rock of the same tone and open to the northern sea. The water comes in clear and the bottom mixes sand with rocky patches, so the swimming is good when the north is calm.

For snorkelling, the most interesting parts are the rocky areas on the sides: rocky bottoms with rock fish and the odd corner to explore with mask and snorkel. Don't expect the textbook turquoise pool of the south; here the appeal is something else, wilder, with that backdrop of red earth you won't see at other coves on the island.

As for services, nothing. There's no bar, no toilets, no lifeguard, no parasols for hire, no bins. Natural shade is scarce, so if you go in the middle of the day you'll have to bring your own. Everything you carry in, you carry out again, rubbish included. That's part of the deal of visiting an unspoilt cove.

Best time and tips

• When to go. June and September are the best: warm water and far fewer people than in the thick of August. Even though it's out of the way, in high season at midday you do notice the crowds.
• The wind rules. It's the north coast and very exposed: with Tramuntana, neither comfortable swimming nor pleasant access by sea. Check the forecast before planning the day. With a southerly wind or calm is when Cala Pilar shines.
• Get up early. Doing the walk early saves you the heat of the shadeless path and leaves you the cove quieter.
• Take everything with you. Water, food, sun protection, your own shade and your rubbish back. There's nothing at the cove and no one to clear up for you.
• Footwear. The path drops through scrub with stretches of dirt and rock; a good pair of trainers or sandals are welcome over flip-flops.

Neighbouring coves

If you put together a day around this north-eastern corner, there are other unspoilt coves nearby worth getting to know. The most recognisable of the surroundings is Cala Morell, in the Ciutadella district, more sheltered and with good snorkelling. And a little to the south, right on the north coast, is the area of Cala Pregonda, another of those reddish-sand coves that define this stretch of coastline.

To place it all in context, two reads will help: the guide to the coves of northern Menorca, with the beaches of this coast and how to reach each one, and the complete guide to the coves of Menorca, covering south and north. If what you fancy is seeing the coast from the water, on the boat routes page I explain how we work depending on the day.

Frequently asked questions

How do you get to Cala Pilar?

By land, leaving the car beside the turn-off on the Me-1 (between Ciutadella and Ferreries) and walking around 1.3 km, some 30 to 40 minutes, along a scrub path that partly follows the Camí de Cavalls. There's no car access down to the cove. The other option is to arrive by sea.

Can you drive to Cala Pilar?

No. The car gets you as far as the car park beside the main-road turn-off, and from there the last stretch is on foot. There's no road or car park at the cove itself; it's unspoilt and undeveloped.

How long does it take to walk to Cala Pilar?

Between 30 and 40 minutes, around 1.3 km, along a path with hardly any shade. In summer it's best to do it first thing or at dusk and to bring water, a cap and sun protection.

Does Cala Pilar have services or a beach bar?

No. It's an unspoilt cove: there's no bar, toilets, lifeguard, parasols or bins. You need to bring water, food and shade, and take all your rubbish back.

When is the best time to visit Cala Pilar?

In June or September, with warm water and fewer people. As it's the north coast and very exposed to the Tramuntana, it's best to avoid days with a north wind: with Tramuntana the sea gets up and it isn't pleasant for swimming or for arriving by sea.